abadía retuerta, ribera del duero
in their words: A destination of experiences in the heart of Ribiera del Duero. It is time to indulge the senses and experience something unique: the setting and the surroundings; the aroma of the vineyards, of the pure air, of the fine cuisine; the calmness, the silence or perhaps a passing gentle melody; mouth-watering flavours and exquisite wines; the feel of fresh bedsheets, and the feel of your skin, taut and smooth, after relaxing in the spa. The luxury of a sunset.
location: Ribiera del Duero Wine Region. 2 hours NW of Madrid. Closest city: Valladolid
number of rooms: 30 (three of which are two bedroom suites)
guides on staff: no, aside from the winery’s staff
spa: yes, access included without booking treatment
children allowed: yes, no age restriction
apartment rooms: yes, two bedroom two bath suites with living room are available
price point: $650-1,000/night
minimum stay: two nights some weekends
rate includes: a la carte breakfast, spa access 10am-9pm. if you book a suite, a private chauffeured wine tour is also included.
book through me: for $100 spa credit, welcome gift, and to support my ability to write articles like this
in my words: This hotel fulfilled our needs perfectly. My only criteria was somewhere within a 2 hour drive of Madrid airport, as we specifically wanted to take the 4:30pm direct from Chicago to Madrid, one of, if not the earliest flights to Europe. We had a feeling our daughter wouldn’t sleep on the flight (and were right) and it was much easier to deal with at 11/12/1am our time rather than 3/4/5am.
Anyways, the bar was simple – somewhere a bearable drive from the Madrid airport to rest and recover from jetlag, and Abbadia was perfect. I think it would be great as a weekend getaway for someone who lives in Europe, or to balance out a Spanish vacation more focused on cities. After recovering from jet lag this way, I don’t think I’ll ever head straight to a city again. Choices are SO hard when you’re sleep deprived or out of sorts, and they were mostly taken from you. Lunch? Only the bar is open. Dinner? You’ve either booked Refectorio in advance, are heading to Vinoteca, or a casual meal at the bar. Want to go on a walk? Head through the vines, through the garden, or in the backyard. Especially with a little one who eats early for Span standards, I don’t think I could’ve handled asking “la cocina esta abierta?” 5x per meal (as we had to do in Oviedo) after not sleeping! With our trip being multi-gen (traveling with Joe’s mom) I think the simplified decision making process was an extra win; it’s one thing trying to make bleary decisions for yourself, but coming to a consensus with a group is even tougher! The restaurants were pricey, felt a bit overpriced even coming from an American price mindset (now having spent time elsewhere in Northern Spain? PHEW!) but I think a property of this caliber comes with that expectation.
Twice daily room service kept things organized, they provide unlimited filtered water you can pop in your fridge, there are room darkening shutters (perfect for our daughter) and the breakfast hours are generous until 11am, allowing you can catch up on sleep. The spa was extremely relaxing, and I think a luxury hotel providing complimentary access all days of their stay is key. I LOVE that they have children’s hours at the spa, 10-1. It allowed you to not feel self-conscious bringing your child (and if certain guests would prefer to avoid them and their noise, they can choose come in the afternoon. I do hope they share the children’s hours with all guests for that reason.) Many spas are adults only all day.
There were some misses I mention in “lost luggage” below, but nothing material enough to not recommend it, or to cause me to wish I had chosen a different hotel for our stay (I would’ve just done more research in advance so I could make winery appointments on my own, and pushed the hotel to set a time on day 1 for the history tour.) Overall, Abadia was a perfect refuge to rest and recover for a few days. I’d recommend a stay of two to three nights for most guests, though we decided on four due to the 4th night free promo (contact me to book this.) While three would have been sufficien, four was totally fine since we were recovering from jet lag. Pre-kids we likely would’ve been set with a three night weekend stay, or if part of a longer trip, two nights, as we’d be antsy to be on to the night destination. (Especially with so many lovely wine regions in the area like Rioja and Priorat - we visited the latter later on the trip – check out my review of Mas d’en Bruno in Prioriat 90 minutes from Barcelona airport.)
little luxury
a favorite little detail...
Have a silent morning – a meditative walk through the gardens, then cycle through the spa circuit: outdoor cold plunge shower, sauna, steam room, hot tub, and repeat, until you decide to retire to the padded chaises adorned by clean fluffy towels, and lounge in a robe (grab one in the locker room.) In summer, pop up to the outdoor pool bar for a poolside lunch or glass of wine.
lost luggage
areas with room for improvement..
During my stay, I felt there was a real missed opportunity for group experiences, but they've started group yoga classes in 2026! Aside from that, upkeep of the outdoor furniture (bird poop…) and that the front desk always felt a bit hectic. They need a dedicated guest experience or concierge colleague who was not constantly busy with check ins/outs - it was so inconvenient to schedule the historic tour of the Abbey they tout that we sadly never did it.
the ideal day at abadía retuerta bon dia
Wake up at your leisure and head to the chapel for breakfast - I love that the hours are late leaning, as the property is a prime destination to sleep in. The à la carte, waiter serviced breakfast is delicious, and I love the mix and match nature of it. There are no struct guidelines on what’s included so you do not feel penny pinched at all. A bread basket with jam and honey is brought to the table, and you can choose additional starters like a fruit bowl, cereal, or yogurt. Then choose a main like avocado toast, banana oat pancakes (perfect for our toddler) eggs various ways including a local Spanish potato omlette. The sides are the best part – iberico ham (probably 10 euros worth in the side alone, based on their menu prices during other meals) crispy bacon, etc.
Mid-morning, head out for a stroll. There's a backyard path trimmed into the lawn, a fountain, and pelican watching out of the unbelievable nest on the roof. Alternatively, head out the back door for the extensive gardens and flowers just down the hill. These are much larger, and they were designed based off of a sketch that was uncovered from the monk’s gardens in the _ (check Instagram.) The leaf arches are gorgeous, and serene to walk through. (If you’re a VVIP, you will see these when you arrive via the adjacent helipad.)
If you’re feeling extra active, check out the zen yoga studio or adjacent gym, or go on a run through the gravel paths on both sides of the road (the abbey is to the north of the highway, and the winery is to the south, the estate’s lands are spread around the surrounding _ acres.)
Midday, join the Abbey’s bakery experience with the lovely Chef Africa. [is this only offered at 11am? If so, best paired with a day where you are having an earlier breakfast, so it can substitute for lunch.]
While at first I struggled with the 195 per person price point, when you realize it includes a bubbly lunch, it becomes much more reasonable – the plate of jamon iberico alone costs 40 – so consider it 100 per person for food and drinks, and 100 per person for the cooking class, and it makes more sense. That is why I suggest doing this mid day (if you have an ealy breakfast, the 11 am start will be perfect, but if you have a late breakfast, I will see if it’s possible to move the tour a bit later so you aren’t too full to enjoy the pizza lunch.) They may just bring you to the breakfast room or the dark bar if you don’t ask, but we brought the leftovers out to the interior courtyard which was the perfect place to enjoy lunch.
Early afternoon, head to enjoy the spa. As it should be, spa access is provided to all hotel guests (drives me crazy when this is not the case.) Pick a treatment from the list, I felt they were pretty pricey so just opted for a 30 minute massage – at 120 euros it only came to 30 + tip after the $100 Virtuoso spa credit you get when booking through me. The experience of the spa is well enjoyed weather or not you have a treatment, which is great. My favorite part is the relaxation room that looks out onto the grass oasis.
Around 4pm, it’s wine time. Your options to visit the winery are either to be picked up by the private chauffeured tour, which is included if you’re staying in a suite, or to grab one of the provided bicycles to pop across the road. The tour (last departure of 4pm) was a nice leisurely experience, meandering through the gravel roads of the vineyard as you discuss the story of how it came to be, a stop at a vantage point, then on to a facilities and cellar tour inside the winery. It seemed like a huge miss that they don’t conduct at least one tasting al fresco at the vantage point! What’s the point of a private car if there’s no special treats provided. I would not pay extra for the tour if it were not included with my room, and would instead head to the wine bar or summer-only patio restaurant at the winery. (Reservations required at the latter - we could not get in even as hotel guests.)
Roll your wine buzz into evening drinks – Abadía dissapointingly only serves patio drinks in the summer (despite gorgeous weather in our late May stay, I guess it was not considered summer) but the pro of this is you can then BYOB and drink the wine bottle welcome gift from the room, or something you picked up at a winery tour. You can also order a bite or drink to go from the bar restaurant and bring it outside yourself.
After happy hour, head to Refectorio for a Michelin starred dinner (it was not my favorite food-wise, but the ambiance was incredible, so the experience was still enjoyable. The deserts were my favorite part. I would personally not spring for the wine pairings, especially if you did the vineyard tour, as they use a lot of their own wine, so it felt overpriced.)
I overanalyzed the decision between Abadía Retuerta and...
Solo Palacio – We did not stay here as it’s adults only, but it’s a similar oasis-like experience, albeit with less of a “campus” – you will need to leave the property during the day unless you are doing a self-guided reading/writing retreat. More to come on this.
Molino de Alcuneza – This was the first spot I found within a 2 hour drive of Madrid airport, and would be a perfect lower-priced substitute for Abadia Retuerta. It's in the direction of San Sebastián rather than Oviedo.