gran hotel mas d'en bruno, priorat

honorable mention. doesn’t have camaraderie or much cultural connection


in their words: A luxury boutique hotel on a historic estate in the heart of Priorat. In our full-service hotel, guests will enjoy a wonderful experience in a unique destination reknown for producing some of the world’s best wines. With 24 elegant suites, Mas d'en Bruno is the ideal place to disconnect and enjoy an exclusive getaway, surrounded by mountains, vineyards and quaint hilltop villages.

location: NE Spain, Priorat wine region, 90 minute outside Barcelona
number of rooms: 24
guides on staff: no
spa: yes but €40 per person per day for access without a treatment. No AC.
children allowed: yes [no age restriction - we saw five babies under two in three days!]
apartment rooms: no, the two luxury suites are "studio" style all in one room.
price point: a steal at $450-650/night for the entry level room
rate includes: buffet breakfast, and option to add a la carte for an additional price
minimum stay:
no
book through me: to support my ability to write articles like this and receive personalized suggestions for your stay.

in my words: This property is a must-visit oasis nestled in a surreal landscape of grape vines clinging to the side of rocky amber colored cliffs. The hard product is wonderful: modern, aesthetically pleasing, calming. The guest rooms are spacious, comfortable, lavishly furnished. and look out over gorgeous views. I loved coming across various nooks around the property that don't meet the eye at first. The concierge absolutely made our experience by arranging excellent (and last minute) visits at two nearby wineries, where we got to meet the winemaker Carles Pastrana at Clos de l'Obac - a highlight of our two week Spain trip. 

That said, I can't help but mourn how much untapped potential there is here. There is absolutely room in the price point, so I wish they would charge €100-200/night more,  add some immersive experiences (I brainstorm some at the end of this article) and remove some very nickle and dimey charges. They could even offer an all-inclusive food/beverage/spa treatment option for an additional charge. 

With some expectation setting up front, I still absolutely think the property is worth visiting, I just hope they will up their caliber in the future. One other thing to know is if you get car sick, you need to mentally prepare yourself for the windy roads on arrival and departure, and consider staying put a bit more once you’re there. There’s such strong potential to become what I consider to be a true “lily’s lodge” by adding cultural connect, camaraderie between guests, upping their cuisine offerings, and continuing the comfort, luxury, and engaged concierge service they provide now. I will be keeping an eye on it!

little luxury

a favorite little detail...
lounging on the daybed of the garden suite's private terrace, or watching the sunset from the hot tub or hidden chaises of the massage deck. 

lost luggage

areas with room for improvement..
lack of immersive experiences and charges for spa access, filtered water, bike rentals, a la carté breakfast, and pool day beds.

the ideal day at gran hotel mas d'en bruno bon dia

morning:
In the summer the days are long and you don’t have to wake up too early to catch sunrise – head to the yoga deck or massage tent chaises around 6 or 6:30 to watch it rise with some centering and self-reflection. Maybe some journaling or writing (as I am doing this moment!)

Enjoy breakfast between 8-10:30. (The chocolate pastries and huge carafes of fresh juice were my favorite.)

Head out via bicycle or private driver for your exploration of the vineyards. (or your own car, if you have a pregnant DD such as myself. Please do not wager these insanely windy, steep roads after even a single glass.) If you opt for bicycle, stop at Torroja del Priorat for a look before continuing on to Gratallops.

The Mas d’en Bruno concierge is incredible, the highlight of our experience. (I paid too much attention to my eight groups traveling memorial day week, and completely neglected my own trip, so they completely saved the stay for us.) They can set up a visit with the owner and winemaker Carles Pastrana (or one of his colleagues) at Clos de l’Obac, which has a special relationship with the hotel – they own the land the hotel is placed on, and still use the surrounding grapes for their Miserere collection of wines. These are high end bottles, mostly €100 and up. Set this visit for around 11:30.

afternoon:
Afterwards, pop into town (a three minute bike ride) for a coursed wine pairing lunch at Clos Figueras which starts at 1pm. (They have a parking lot as well.) We are always on the search for a combined winery and restaurant, especially one with pairings and al fresco seating, and this one does it excellently. Their gorgeous backyard is perfect for children to run around, and an involved but approachable menu for 50 euros per person, served under the vine covered pergola of my dreams. (They have indoor seating as well.)

The concierge can recommend a third stop of the day, heading into a different region if you have a driver, or somewhere en route like Trossos del Priorat if you opt for the bike. If you head west, finish your day with a casual patio €2 wine or refreshing beer at Cal Centro, a tiny bodega overlooking gravity defying hilltop village La Vilella Baixa.
As the heat of the day is properly built – return to the hotel for a dip in the refreshingly not-heated pool, thoughtfully designed with a staircase in front of every cabana, benches along one entire side of the pool (which also doubles well as a floor for short swimmers like Stevie) and a gorgeous infinity edge out to the vines. The pool restaurant is open until 5 but you won’t need it after your filling lunch!

evening:
Refresh back in your room in the huge shower or freestanding bathtub. 

Head out for a coursed meal at Vinum, the onsite restaurant that provides amuse bouche (even if you're ordering a la carté) beautiful presentation, and wine pairings. We enjoyed chatting with the servers and bartender. While they have a handful of wines by the glass, either pour or Coravin, they also try to open a few additional “by the bottle” wines every day to serve by the glass, so that guests can try new wines throughout their stay, which we appreciated. 

Catch the stars while walking back to your room for a restful evening with the dim lights in the room, easily controlled by a master switch next to the bed. 

If the Grand Mas d’en Bruno price point is too high for you... 

please don’t let that cause you to miss out on the stunning Priorat region. I can also book Terra Dominicata Hotel & Winery, (~$400/night) Buil & Gine (~$200/night) or ORA Hotel (~$250/night) among others. Just shoot me a note!

Offerings that would escalate Gran Mas d'en Bruno to the next caliber of hotel

  • Morning yoga and sound bath meditation on the yoga deck (a separate 30 minutes offering of each, back to back, allowing more guests to take advantage as some would be interested in one without the other, and some will stay through for both.) 
  • Afternoon wine tasting and talk about the Priorat wine region – could be two small pours, would barely cost them anything. Could provide an option to pay for a more in depth tasting afterwards. They have a gorgeous wine cellar that most guests probably never even see, that has a nice table seating 6, and a small amphitheater of seating around, so they wouldn’t have to worry about hitting capacity if they provided this for free. Explain the relationship with Clos l’Obac winery and a quick comparison of two cheaper wines from the region. 
  • Sundowner or evening cocktail at the fire pit – another gorgeous space completely unutilized that seats many – they would not even have to give an alcoholic drink away for free if they felt it wasn’t in the budget, just a small organized gathering to light the fire would facilitate camradiee between the same guests who pass each other all day giving polite nods but never fully talking.
  • One rotating cultural activity, it would not even have to be daily, could be every other day. Stargazing in the evening, a short cooking demonstration in the gorgeous open kitchen you can see through the window to the restaurant but no one really interacts with, evening outdoor paella cooking on the pool restaurant deck - they offered it for a private event when I was here but not for guests. Host a local athlete to give a talk about the Castells of Tarragona in the library – a unique sport where people are stacked on top of each other. The schedule is unpredictable, and I was disappointed we were not able to witness a practice while we were in the region, so this would be a fun way to bridge the gap and still introduce guests to the sport. A cold water immersion meditation in the spa and introduction to the cool hot and cold therapy loop they look to be offering. A walk through the grapes, only steps from the main building, and point out what winemakers look for in a plant. I am not familiar enough with Catalan culture to suggest the other activities, but am sure there are the potential for many more.